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  #16  
Old 07-01-2009, 11:08 AM
dsm0274 dsm0274 is offline
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2005 Pathfinder
 
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so i was in a quandary inspection is now over due and i wanted to get this fixed but would hate to find out it was just a gas cap---so called the dealer and found they had one in stock price was $36, on the way to the car(going to get new gas cap)convinced myself i had read enough and was going to atl;east check the vent valve because it was sounding just as likely this was the prob. especially with the bag under the gas cap. got on my back and started to loosen the bold that held it in, came out very hard and was very scared i would break it off-i have pretty big hands so i know if it breaks i am sunk. got it part way out then started to feel around on top of canister and knew i didn't know what i was feeling then i started to panis---what if i break the bolt what if i can't get canister out maybe i could still reach it with it loosened but then i wouldn't be able to get valve off so i re tightened the bolt and went to stealership and bought a gas cap. then when i pulled out i got buyers remorse because i figured i could just blow on the valve(or suck) to see if it was moving and help pressure so i tried with the new one then the old one and they worked about the same. Sh*t now i am out $36 that i have could have put towards new vent control valve. as i was feeling on top i did get a bunch of Grey grease like stuff on my hand, washed off pretty easily so i think it may have been just dirt but i don't know, the only thing i am worried about now is if i will be able to get the canister all the way out because i think that is my only way--like i said pretty big hands. will try when it dries up a little outside---anyone have the vent control valve and carbon canister part number for the 2005 pathfinder??
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2009, 11:51 AM
dsm0274 dsm0274 is offline
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Join Date: May 2009
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one more question before i go on---if i remove canister and valve then clean valve and test to see if it's working can i still drive the car without these parts attached without damage?? reason i am asking is if i find the valve is busted i will have to order the parts and i don't wanna pull this apart too many time--seems like that's when i ruin most stuff is when i try it the third or fourth time--also i tried to price the filter kit from courtesy parts--looks like it's about $34 before shipping 1-is there a special retro kit i need for the 2005 pf or can i just order the 2 tubed filter bracket and bolt 2-will it be worth seems to conflicting opinions---i do drive on dirt roads occasionally
[18791NA] HOSE-DRAIN,CANISTER - Pathfinder (R51) 2005-2009
18791-R51005 $7.52
[18791N] HOSE-DRAIN,CANISTER - Pathfinder (R51) 08/2004-04/2007 4.0L V6
18791-R51001 $8.40

[18792E] CONNECTOR - Pathfinder (R51) 08/2004-01/2007 4.0L V6
18792-R51001 $6.44

[081B68202A] BOLT-FLG, - Pathfinder (R51) 2005-2009
081B6-R51007 $1.11

[14953P] BRACKET-EVAPORATOR FILTER - Pathfinder (R51) 2005-2009
14953-R51002 $1.50

[14953N] FILTER-CANISTER - Pathfinder (R51) 2005-2009
14953-R51001 $8.61
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2009, 11:39 AM
obie
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Default But thats's: "Another Story"..

Evap. Canister1997 Pathfinder and its attached 2 bolt vacuum control valve.
"Another story..."

The black "bread-box" Evap. canister has a two bolt purge control valve on front side (both under left rear fender next to spare tire). Taking unit out is semi easy (rust is the nemesis). Three bolts hold the box onto the overhead/frame. The two rubber hoses on front of the box come off easily (with great care unless you buy the black box as well) as I did. They are 2 different diameters hoses so note which black plastic nipple they came from. Replace the check valve and the box is easy BUT get the Nissan O ring that is FATTER than hardware pluming type. Get the "O" ring from dealer or if you're lucky, ask the Ebay seller to send "O" ring with the check valve (or canister).
Why Ebay you ask? Because you pay $46 plus $126 vs $$400. The Canister on Ebay is around $126. Valve $46. Put these two together on a bench. Use a small amount of Indian Head gasket sealer on the "O" ring and its fitting groove in the canister.

Hardest thing is the bolts that hole canister (black box) to the rusty metal frame above it.. all is rusted to the floor above it. Drill a new set of holes next to or aside these bolts and use three screw (stainless) bolts for replacement. Now the most trouble is clicking the electrical plug/adapter connecting the check valve you bought to the wiring harness plug. There is a side release plastic latch and then afterward you have to push real hard to hear a loud click on the reconnection.

Clear codes before all this canister vacuum control valve replacement effort.
How? one way is to turning on the ignition to second position (dash lights up).Then unplug plug negative lead at battery a few seconds.
Then reconnect the negative lead and turn off ( take out key from ignition).
Run the silly thing for about 60- 80 miles and get to 65 mph once or twice on Hwy.

Then drive a while to see if the idiot light came on... Knock sensor/check valve... usually lights after three "knock/ping/danagwop detections. If not, the canister and check valve is good to go.

I think some professional/dealer broke a check valve in front of this system that leads to the "black box". Sent me away saying they couldn't test the system without a smoke machine. But that's "another day and ...Another Story" .
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2009, 03:14 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obie View Post
Evap. Canister1997 Pathfinder and its attached 2 bolt vacuum control valve.
"Another story..."

The black "bread-box" Evap. canister has a two bolt purge control valve on front side (both under left rear fender next to spare tire). Taking unit out is semi easy (rust is the nemesis). Three bolts hold the box onto the overhead/frame. The two rubber hoses on front of the box come off easily (with great care unless you buy the black box as well) as I did. They are 2 different diameters hoses so note which black plastic nipple they came from. Replace the check valve and the box is easy BUT get the Nissan O ring that is FATTER than hardware pluming type. Get the "O" ring from dealer or if you're lucky, ask the Ebay seller to send "O" ring with the check valve (or canister).
Why Ebay you ask? Because you pay $46 plus $126 vs $$400. The Canister on Ebay is around $126. Valve $46. Put these two together on a bench. Use a small amount of Indian Head gasket sealer on the "O" ring and its fitting groove in the canister.

Hardest thing is the bolts that hole canister (black box) to the rusty metal frame above it.. all is rusted to the floor above it. Drill a new set of holes next to or aside these bolts and use three screw (stainless) bolts for replacement. Now the most trouble is clicking the electrical plug/adapter connecting the check valve you bought to the wiring harness plug. There is a side release plastic latch and then afterward you have to push real hard to hear a loud click on the reconnection.

Clear codes before all this canister vacuum control valve replacement effort.
How? one way is to turning on the ignition to second position (dash lights up).Then unplug plug negative lead at battery a few seconds.
Then reconnect the negative lead and turn off ( take out key from ignition).
Run the silly thing for about 60- 80 miles and get to 65 mph once or twice on Hwy.

Then drive a while to see if the idiot light came on... Knock sensor/check valve... usually lights after three "knock/ping/danagwop detections. If not, the canister and check valve is good to go.

I think some professional/dealer broke a check valve in front of this system that leads to the "black box". Sent me away saying they couldn't test the system without a smoke machine. But that's "another day and ...Another Story" .
If you got a canister with a separate o-ring between the canister and valve you are getting old parts. Nissan updated that design years ago because of sealing problems.. The newer canisters have a larger hole and the vent valve has a protrusion that goes into that hole. The o-ring comes on the valve. This creates a better seal. When installing the new valve to the canister use plastic bolts or grease the bolts thoroughly. The cause of the canisters cracking is that the bolts rust into the inserts in the canister and causes them to expand and crack the plastic. Also do not overtighten the bolts for the vlave. If you spin the insert you will create a vapor leak.
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2009, 02:51 PM
dsm0274 dsm0274 is offline
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2005 Pathfinder
 
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need some help trying to get evap canister out---how does the middle hose disconnect from the canister i can see two gray wings and the tube pushes in and twists round but i can't get it off tried pulling and twisting but i don't wanna force it too hard untill i am sure

Last edited by dsm0274; 07-09-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:12 PM
dsm0274 dsm0274 is offline
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i was able to get the vent control valve off(finally) without removing the center hose, but would still like to know how to get it off for future reference. when i took the vent tube off i blew on one end and dust came out the other. took v/c valve 0ff and tested with battery i could feel the valve trying to close but didn't hear a click so i figured i had the problem---i blew through the valve and dust came out, the tested again and still no click. i didn't have any brake cleaner or wd-40 so i figured the valve was busted anyway so i jammed a screw driver in there and moved the spring and then tapped it on a table blew through it agaun and tested it and it worked---pretty excited about that. i didn't have new o-rings because the dealer ship said they didn't stock them and couldn't look up their(the o=ring's) part number. put the valve back in which wasn't very easy for some reason until i licked the o-ring and it slid right in(spit always seems to help for some reason) put the car back together and drove it around for 2 minutes stopped turned the key off and drove for another 5 minutes and the SES light still hasn't gone off---maybe i have waited long enough---any other suggestions??

Last edited by dsm0274; 07-12-2009 at 08:13 AM.
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2009, 08:24 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm0274 View Post
i was able to get the vent control valve off(finally) without removing the center hose, but would still like to know how to get it off for future reference. when i took the vent tube off i blew on one end and dust came ou the other. took v/c valve 0ff and tested with battery i could feel the valve trying to close but didn't hear a click so i figured i had the problrm---i blew through the valve and dust came out, the tested again and still no click. i didn't have any brake cleaner or wd-40 so i figured the valve was busted anyway so i jammed a screw driver in there and moveed the spring and then tapped it on a table blew through it agaun and tested it and it worked---pretty excited about that. i didn't have new o-rings because the dealer ship said they didn't stock them and couldn't look up their(the o=ring's) part number. put the valve back in which wasn't very easy for some reason until i licked the o-ring and it slid right in(spit always seems t help for some reason) put the v=car back together and drove it around for 2 inutes stopped turned the key off and drove for another 5 minutes and the SES light still hasn't gone off---maybe i have waited long enough---any other suggestions??
it's going to take a lot longer than 7 minutes for it to clear. It could take a couple days. You need to drive at least 50 miles , maybe more.
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  #23  
Old 10-18-2009, 01:49 PM
jdjurado
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Hey everyone, I just finished reading through this whole thread.

I have been having similar problems with my 04 Pathy. I replaced the control valve AND the canister.

Today, my light came back on with the exact same codes: 455 and 1448.

What do you suggest I do next??

Thanks for your help!

PS: Coincidentally, the light initially came on while taking a long road trip and my exhaust pipe rusted off from the rest of the exhaust. I fixed it by welding the pipes back together but there is still a tiny leak at the junction. Midas tells me that you could take off the entire muffler and no codes should be set off but it seems like such a coincidence that the light would come on right around the same time the muffler came off. So the question is: Does a leak in the muffler part of the exhaust set off the 455 and/or the 1448 codes?

Last edited by jdjurado; 10-18-2009 at 01:52 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-18-2009, 02:06 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjurado View Post
Hey everyone, I just finished reading through this whole thread.

I have been having similar problems with my 04 Pathy. I replaced the control valve AND the canister.

Today, my light came back on with the exact same codes: 455 and 1448.

What do you suggest I do next??

Thanks for your help!

PS: Coincidentally, the light initially came on while taking a long road trip and my exhaust pipe rusted off from the rest of the exhaust. I fixed it by welding the pipes back together but there is still a tiny leak at the junction. Midas tells me that you could take off the entire muffler and no codes should be set off but it seems like such a coincidence that the light would come on right around the same time the muffler came off. So the question is: Does a leak in the muffler part of the exhaust set off the 455 and/or the 1448 codes?
You probably have a wiring issue.Check the wiring that plugs into the vent valve on the evap canister. They usually break a couple inches from the connector.
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  #25  
Old 10-18-2009, 02:53 PM
jdjurado
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Thanks, will check the wiring. BTW, do you know how the voltage works to the valve? Should there be 12V to it at all times the car is on?
Also, do you have any reason to believe that the muffler leak i mentioned could cause the codes? In other words, should I spend the 300+ on a new exhaust system?
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  #26  
Old 10-22-2009, 08:12 PM
jdjurado
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Wiring turned out to be fine! Still getting the light and the codes. Could this be a sensor problem? Which sensor is responsible for recognizing the evap problems and turning on the light?
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  #27  
Old 12-03-2011, 08:12 AM
ctalford ctalford is offline
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2005 Pathfinder
 
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Posts: 4
Default gross evac leak question

Is the vent control valve the same as the Vapor Canister Purge Valve? If not can someone advise me as to where online I can purchase the vent control valve please.


Thanks
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  #28  
Old 12-04-2011, 03:52 AM
dsm0274 dsm0274 is offline
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this is the purge volume control solenoid or Vapor Canister Purge Valve which is located under the hodon the front of the engine

Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com


this is the vent control valve which is attached to the charcole canister in the back of the car

Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com[14920]+\(r51&cPath=6833_6834_6862_6865

Last edited by dsm0274; 12-04-2011 at 03:57 AM.
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