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Delayed start problem Forums > > Delayed start problem Delayed start problem
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  #1  
Old 11-30-2007, 06:32 AM
mbrans
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Exclamation Delayed start problem

I purchased a 2002 Maxima GLE that had heavy front-end damage. I was able to start the car prior to repairs, but it would take from 10 to 90 seconds of cranking to start. Once running it idles good and engine is strong. I had to replace the engine compartment wiring harness during the repairs, but the problem is still there. I replaced the ECM with a used one and had it reprogrammed and replaced the crank sensor and the two cam sensors trying to resolve the problem, those didn't fix it. I pulled the fitting off the end of the fuel rail and tested the fuel pressure it is right at 40psi. Sometimes it starts in 10seconds and sometimes it will just crank for minutes without starting now. There is an engine light on for the front O2 sensor and for a valve in the emissions cannister.
Does anyone have an idea were to check next? Thanks
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Old 12-06-2007, 12:14 PM
mbrans
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Default ideas?

Any ideas????
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2007, 03:31 PM
asghar asghar is offline
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my 97 max had the same problem ,if i crank it even for a long time it wont start but if i crank it once then wait for 2 seconds and then crank it starts and it kept happening for two weeks , after its started idle was good and there was nothing unusual in driving.
Then after two weeks of headache i figured out that Fuse # 17 (10amp) was not there at all.replaced the fuse and my problem was gone.
it could be other problem with your car but this is my personal experience on my max
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2007, 04:34 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Check the negative battery cable and make sure it is securely attached to the transmission or engine. The cable should be bolted to the body under the battery tray and also somewhere on either the engine block or transmission case.
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2007, 05:52 AM
mbrans
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Thanks for the input. I will check both suggestions and let you know.
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2007, 08:38 AM
mbrans
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I checked the fuses and the negative cable. Fuses are good and neg cable is grounded to body and trans. I noticed that just before i starts the check engine light will blink, then it starts. Is it possible the key sentry is not giving the computer the signal that the proper key is being used?
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  #7  
Old 12-25-2007, 12:32 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrans View Post
I checked the fuses and the negative cable. Fuses are good and neg cable is grounded to body and trans. I noticed that just before i starts the check engine light will blink, then it starts. Is it possible the key sentry is not giving the computer the signal that the proper key is being used?
Not likely. If it was the key it would not start at all. I would recheck the fuel pressure. Hook up the gauge and crank the engine, then let it sit for a while to see if the pressure bleeds down. It may have a bad pressure regulator.
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  #8  
Old 12-25-2007, 06:27 PM
mbrans
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I will check the pressure again, I didn't check to see if the pressure dropped after turning the key off the first time around.

I did some research and troubleshooting today. I replaced the bad O2 sensor and found how to manually check and clear the engine light. The dealer was pretty vague regarding the codes, so I haven't gone back to them again. When I cleared the codes I started the car and eventually got another code, using the info I found on manually checking codes, the code I read is 0335(crank position sensor). I have already replaced the sensor, so I cut open the harness between the sensor and engine harness and found two broken wires(the black wire and the white wire). I soldered the wires and cleared the codes and restarted the car. The delayed start still occured and the engine light came on again with the same code. The tach did operate a couple times and went back out(it hasn't worked for awhile). I then checked the continuity of the two wires from the sensor to the ecm and the third to ground with no problems found.

1) Is it likely that the new sensor is bad or maby ruined because of the bad wires?

2)Is it possible to check the sensor itself?, It looks like the white wire is the signal to the ECM if I hook a voltmeter to it when the car is running should it show a fluctuation of voltage?

3) what does the sensor read off the flywheel, and could that have been damaged from the shock of impact from the accident.


Thanks
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2007, 05:58 PM
mbrans
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Default Problem found

After some continuing trouble shooting I found the problem to be the terminal for the white signal wire that plugs into the crank sensor was not making good contact with the crank sensor prong. I was able to find the problem when I put an ohmeter on the prongs coming out of the sensor and getting a reading from the sensor, but no ohm reading between the wires once the wires were plugged into the sensor. I did a temporary fix by putting a small piece of foil into the plug holes. Car starts fine now and I am looking for a new pigtail from a wrecking yard.
Thanks
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2007, 05:59 PM
mbrans
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Smile Problem found

After some continuing trouble shooting I found the problem to be the terminal for the white signal wire that plugs into the crank sensor was not making good contact with the crank sensor prong. I was able to find the problem when I put an ohmeter on the prongs coming out of the sensor and getting a reading from the sensor, but no ohm reading between the wires once the wires were plugged into the sensor. I did a temporary fix by putting a small piece of foil into the plug holes. Car starts fine now and I am looking for a new pigtail from a wrecking yard.
Thanks
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