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2007 Maxima Can ABS be disconnected? Forums > > 2007 Maxima Can ABS be disconnected? 2007 Maxima Can ABS be disconnected?
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  #1  
Old 01-31-2017, 12:43 PM
UncleMega UncleMega is offline
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Smile 2007 Maxima Can ABS be disconnected?

Like so many others, my 2007 Maxima needs the right rear speed sensor and ABS actuator module replaced. The trade in value is at best $3k and the dealer proposed repairs exceed that value.

Can I deactivate the ABS system and not use the ABS and TCS systems?
Is their a source for rebuilt modules so I can repair it myself?
Has anyone had a good experience to share with aftermarket hubs or sensors?

Any other suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2017, 09:00 AM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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I wouldn't recommend disabling a safety device. I can understand not wanting to spend several thousand dollars on a repair! For the wheel speed sensor, Rockauto.com has one as cheap as $65; for $85, you can get a Dorman part with a lifetime warranty.

For the actuator, finding a reman might be difficult, so I would consider getting a used actuator from a salvage yard or Ebay. I saw five different actuator part options for 2007 Maximas, so I would go to a sight like NissanPartsDeal.com and search for the correct part number by using your vehicle's VIN #. Once you have the part number, you can search Ebay using it for available units. There are some options for under $200. Another site to search for used parts is Car-part.com.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2017, 04:50 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleMega View Post
Like so many others, my 2007 Maxima needs the right rear speed sensor and ABS actuator module replaced. The trade in value is at best $3k and the dealer proposed repairs exceed that value.

Can I deactivate the ABS system and not use the ABS and TCS systems?
Is their a source for rebuilt modules so I can repair it myself?
Has anyone had a good experience to share with aftermarket hubs or sensors?

Any other suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks!
You may not need any parts to fix your problem. If you do a search on this site you will find plenty of info posted on how to fix it. It involves modifying the plastic cover around the rear abs sensors and removing the rear wheel bearings to clean out corrosion. After that is done drive the vehicle to see if the abs actuator is working properly. When the rear sensors are reading wrong it will throw a controller failure code. It usually doesn't need to be replaced for that code. If it has solenoid codes then you will need the actuator.
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Old 02-05-2017, 09:19 AM
UncleMega UncleMega is offline
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Thanks for the responses.
The codes being thrown are P1212, U1001 and C1124.

I'm replacing the sensor on the RR wheel now. I've put penetrant on the hub bolts and could crack them after an hour but the sensor bolt won't budge after 3 hours and multiple applications. I'm hoping to save the hub but if I snap off the sensor bolt that might be problematic. I do have an overhead drill press so I could likely drill it out.

I've got aftermarket wheel sensors and a module from a wrecked 2008 with 55K miles but I'm hoping replacing the sensor does the trick.

Any suggestions for a good penetrant? WD40 and LiquidWrench don't work in these situations although I've had success before with Xcorrosion and brake fluid (in the old days!). Kroil or CRC Freeze-Off any good?
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2017, 05:22 PM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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CRC Freeze-off and P-blaster are both very good. If you can get a torch and put some heat on it, it would help a lot. Not sure how much room you have. Also, if you do torch it, have a fire extinguisher handy just in case!
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2017, 06:03 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleMega View Post
Thanks for the responses.
The codes being thrown are P1212, U1001 and C1124.

I'm replacing the sensor on the RR wheel now. I've put penetrant on the hub bolts and could crack them after an hour but the sensor bolt won't budge after 3 hours and multiple applications. I'm hoping to save the hub but if I snap off the sensor bolt that might be problematic. I do have an overhead drill press so I could likely drill it out.

I've got aftermarket wheel sensors and a module from a wrecked 2008 with 55K miles but I'm hoping replacing the sensor does the trick.

Any suggestions for a good penetrant? WD40 and LiquidWrench don't work in these situations although I've had success before with Xcorrosion and brake fluid (in the old days!). Kroil or CRC Freeze-Off any good?
Don't remove the sensor. Just push the plastic cover out after you remove the wheel bearing. Cut the hole in the plate so it looks like a U and reinstall it.
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2017, 02:00 PM
UncleMega UncleMega is offline
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Well... here's my update. I did as mpe235 suggested. Lots of corrosion when I removed the wheel bearing and I made an oblong or U shaped cut in the plate and then cleaned and replaced the plastic cap. Took me a while to do it all because I'm working on a kwik lift in the garage and I also needed to replace the left front ball joint & lower control arm. Discovered my valve cover is apparently leaking like crazy too and I can't seem to locate a aftermarket valve cover.

Anyway, car drives fine now... no limp mode etc. However, I still have all my trouble lights lit on the dash so I assume the ABS module must be bad.
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  #8  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:21 AM
dknight216 dknight216 is offline
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Are you talking about the plastic cover behind the wheel bearing?
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  #9  
Old 02-22-2017, 05:17 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Are you talking about the plastic cover behind the wheel bearing?
Yes. The white plastic cover.
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