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Old 04-11-2013, 01:11 AM
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Default 1999 Maxima gas poutring out tailpipe

Hello,
I bought a 99 Nissan Maxima 1 month ago.
When I got it the check engine light was on along with the airbag light, battery light, and a couple of other lights on the dashboard but it ran perfectly.
When the ECM module was previously checked on a meter by the previous owner (my brother) it showed as constantly resetting and no codes could be gotten out of it. When I checked the reset screw on the module someone had broken it off.
It still ran fine but I knew I had to fix it to pass smog.
Last week I had to crank it for about 5-10 seconds instead of it starting right away. There was no power and it kept wanting to stall. When I revved it blue smoke was coming out the exhaust. When I walked around back I could SEE it spitting out gas... as in there was already a 3' in diameter puddle after 30 seconds.
By playing with the gas peddle I managed to get it home (3 miles away). During that time it was always on the verge of stalling and in the 3 miles it literally went through a little over 1/2 a tank of gas.

Since then I soldered in a new reset switch on the module and put it back.
After resetting it gas was still coming out the tailpipe (about the same speed as before).

When I tested the module for codes by counting the long and short flashes it gave me 3/4, 7/1, 10/4, and 13/2. Checking on the web I find 3/4 is knock sensor. 7/1 is multiple random cylinder misfires. 13/2 is MAP sensor.

I can not find 10/4 anywhere.
Does anyone know this code?

Could a bad MAP sensor cause the gas to pour out the tailpipe?

I have a blown head gasket?
I checked the oil and it looked fine (no water in it) and it was not low. I check the radiator and it was fine also (nothing missing and it did not look contaminated).

Does anyone have a suggestion?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Paul
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul90804 View Post
There was no power and it kept wanting to stall. When I revved it blue smoke was coming out the exhaust. When I walked around back I could SEE it spitting out gas... as in there was already a 3' in diameter puddle after 30 seconds.

I have a blown head gasket?
Thank you,
Paul
Paul - Raw fuel coming out of the tailpipe is very rare as its usually burn off by the catalytic converter. So it has to be in large amount that the CAT can't burn all and its being expelled at the exhaust pipe. I suspect you have one or more bad injectors. I would focus first on injectors. Also inspect your spark plugs and ignition coils as part of your tune-up. Take care of the raw fuel issue first as it can ruin your CAT.

Bad head gasket? a possibility. You said your motor oil level is fine so keep an eye on coolant level. If its fine your HG is probably a ok. The knock sensor issue is probably triggered by the misfire.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:08 PM
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I agree. I would install a fuel pressure tester, confirm proper fuel pressure and do a fuel pressure leakdown test. One of the problems with that much gas being in the exhaust is the potential for it to combust. I remember the 92-94 Maxima SE's would have issues with the muffler blowing apart when the ignition coils would fail and raw gas got sent into the exhaust and eventually ignite!
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:10 PM
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I changed the MAP Sensor because that was one of the codes that came up. No change. I unplugged the fuel injectors 1 by one and there was no change. When I did a Google search someone had suggested a leaking/broken O-ring on an injector. They also suggested it could be the coil packs.
I got a tester and it 1st came up as P1320 and P0325 (Knock Sensor). When I reset the the codes it still came up as knock sensor but the P1320 went away.
Paul
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:28 AM
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I unplugged the fuel injectors 1 by one and there was no change. I got a tester and it 1st came up as P1320 and P0325 (Knock Sensor). When I reset the the codes it still came up as knock sensor but the P1320 went away.
Paul
Let me make sure we are on the same page. In your post #1 you tried to read the trouble codes with long and short flashes. By tester, you mean a code reader or OBD Scanner? Testing your injectors takes more than just pulling them out one by one and do visuals. It will no tell you anything. If the injector O-rings are worn you can easily replace them. You will need to remove the entire injector rail. You need a power source like a car battery, build a circuit with a switch and a bucket of gas for injector to draw fuel when you apply voltage. You will see the injector firing normally with a fine spray or clog or dead injector.

With an oscilloscope I think you can look at each injector if its working properly. Its been suggested before to use injector cleaners if you suspect they are clog. But it won't help on dead injector. I have an automotive stethoscope that I use to listen to the injectors to be sure all sounds the same even tho I don't have issues. If it is dead you will hear no sound or working intermittently it will sound different from a good working injector.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:55 AM
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[QUOTE=bennyb53;89270]Let me make sure we are on the same page. In your post #1 you tried to read the trouble codes with long and short flashes. By tester, you mean a code reader or OBD Scanner? Testing your injectors takes more than just pulling them out one by one and do visuals. It will no tell you anything. If the injector O-rings are worn you can easily replace them. You will need to remove the entire injector rail. You need a power source like a car battery, build a circuit with a switch and a bucket of gas for injector to draw fuel when you apply voltage. You will see the injector firing normally with a fine spray or clog or dead injector.
QUOTE]

That is correct. I did read the trouble codes by counting the long and short.
Last night the tester I bought on Ebay arrived so I checked with that. The tester was an OBD Scanner.
By testing the injectors I meant I disconnected the wiring to each of them one at a time which should have stopped them from releasing gas into the cylinders. I disconnected 1, started the car, waited 5-7 seconds to see if the flow of gas out the tailpipe changed, turned off the car, and repeated with the next in line.
I know doing a visual on the injectors would not tell me anything so I did not do one.

By the way, between the 1 test after replacing the MAP Sensor and the 6 tests for the fuel injectors totaling about 40-60 seconds engine run time I ended up with a soaked area on the ground 2 feet wide by 5 feet long.

Paul
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:44 PM
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Paul, I am still stuck with the injectors issue cuz of your situation. Keep in mind injectors are the last exit point for fuel to be burn or not burnt as in your case and exits the tailpipe. IDK if you have done what "smj999smj" had suggested in #3:
1. its imperative to confirm you have correct fuel pressure.
2. pull all injectors out of the IM (one side at a time) but still connected to the fuel rail and wire harness. Have someone turn ignition key to On (not start) while you watch the injectors. At this time fuel pump is powered up and pressure builds up and injectors should be closed. If fuel comes out of any injector that injector should be replaced. Also a good idea to put a rag under each injector to absorb any fuel coming out. Repeat procedure on other side. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:32 PM
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Latest update:

I took the fuel rail off, turned the key on and saw 1 injector spraying a lot. Replaced the injector and retested. No leaks. I did screw and reread the post here and forgot to leave the wiring harness attached. Would that make a big difference?

I changed the knock sensor with a new one from Ebay. This was one of the codes shown before.

Replaced all 3 intake manifold gaskets.

Changed the spark plugs.

Reset the OBD Scanner and retested. No codes came back.
Reset the ECM module and checked it again. It came back: 5 long, 5 short which, according to the internet, means: No Failure Recorded/Detected

Still spits fuel like crazy out the exhaust.



Paul
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul90804 View Post
Latest update: I took the fuel rail off, turned the key on and saw 1 injector spraying a lot. Replaced the injector and retested. No leaks. I did screw and reread the post here and forgot to leave the wiring harness attached. Would that make a big difference?
Paul
1. can you confirm you have correct fuel pressure.
2. The Answer is No. You're only looking for leaky injector(s).The injector spewing fuel when fuel pump was primed was already stuck open. The others are close which they are suppose to. The others you still don't know if they're working good or clog, or just a trickle, a dribble, or drip, drip, dripping fuel until you apply voltage to operate the injector. The test outline in #5 cannot be done in the engine compartment, its too hazardous as fuel will be sprayed from working injector. You will need a tub or bucket to catch the fuel.

If you feel this is beyond your comfort level I suggest you seek professional help in getting your injectors tested.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:15 PM
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with the assumption that there is no leaky injector.

1. check for the fuel pressure regulator. you may have an over pressure (otherwise no fuel will be spat out). (search the web on how to check fuel pressure regulator).


2. it is highly unlikely but suspect an or some injector/s is/are always energized (powered on all the time) causing the fuel to continuously flow into the cylinder. hook up an analog voltmeter (with sweeping pointer, not digital) to each injector. (please observe polarity). a pulsating voltage reading (alternate 0 and 12v) will indicate that the circuit is good. a steady reading of 12 volts? (not sure if it is 12v) would indicate that the circuit is bad (always on). suspect ecm is bad? or suspect uninsulated positive (+) wiring of the injectors are touching each other? good luck troubleshooting.

please post whatever you had done to resolve the problem.

Last edited by OilCanObserver; 05-17-2013 at 04:19 PM.
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