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Old 06-24-2010, 09:52 AM
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Default OBD-II Codes P0442 and P1456

I have a 2003 Maxima SE and pulled 2 codes off. I have codes P0442 and P1456.

P0442 - EVAP Control System small leak detected (negative pressure)

P1456 - EVAP Control System

Do anyone have any experience with either of these and how can I fix the problem.

Thanks for your help.

Kevin
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:53 PM
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Could be just a loose or bad gas cap. Here is a bulletin that may help you diagnose the problem: Knowledgebase - 2003 Maxima - Nissanhelp.com Forums
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klbrowning View Post
I have a 2003 Maxima SE and pulled 2 codes off. I have codes P0442 and P1456.

P0442 - EVAP Control System small leak detected (negative pressure)

P1456 - EVAP Control System

Do anyone have any experience with either of these and how can I fix the problem.

Thanks for your help.

Kevin
i have a 2003 nissan maxima.it pulled off 2 codes p1456 and p0442 Does any one knows what to do .thanks
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:41 AM
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Did either KLBrowning or carlos torres ever successfully diagnose and repair your maximas for these two codes?
My 2003 maxima is throwing the exact same ones. There are a huge number of possibilities for where the leak/malfunction could be; hoping to diagnose myself because just the diagnoses could be $$$ from a dealer/shop.
Thanks
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:34 AM
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Both codes suggest that there is a small leak on the EVAP system. Due to the age you your Maxima, you should start by replacing the gas cap. If the problem persist you may have to replaced the "EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve".


P0442 NISSAN - EVAP Control System Leak Detected Small Leak

Read more: OBDII Code P0442 NISSAN - EVAP Control System Leak Detected Small Leak | Engine-Codes.com

P1456 NISSAN - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected Small Leak

Read more: OBDII Code P1456 NISSAN - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected Small Leak | Engine-Codes.com
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:28 AM
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NissanTech-
I appreciate the reply!
A little more background on my situation: I've had the current codes for a while, along with a couple indicating a "large EVAP leak"; pulled them earlier this year and took the car to one of my local "general" mechanics who smoked the system.
Smoke was coming out from the canister and I ended up replacing the valve that installs directly in the canister (P/N: 14935-5M00B), but, lucky me, the fasteners holding the old valve onto the canister both were so rusty that they snapped off...ended up twisting out the "nuts" molded in to the canister....filled with metal epoxy and re-tapped...nightmare.
Anyway, I felt that the fix went well, and didn't see any potential leakage points, but I haven't had it smoked again to verify. It may be that I have a multi-point failure and I just happened to fix the most obvious one. Or maybe the canister is now screwed.
I really should buy a gas cap regardless since it is a cheap thing to do and worth a shot, but I have my doubts since I've already smoked the system and nothing leaked from teh gas cap seal.
Since every time I take it to be diagnosed it's that much more $$, I just wanted to do as much due dilligance as I could prior to having to plop down more bucks for another diagnostics. If i do it again, I will probably just suck it up and have a dealer do a diagnostics test; hopefully I'll get an honest eval vs. a "sales oriented" eval. My track record has been about 50/50 with dealer service shops.
Ugh. Just want this over and done with!
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:44 AM
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If you take it to the dealer and they see how you fixed the canister, they will definitely recommend the canister and the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve, even before performing any tests. If you take it to my shop I'll probably recommend the same thing as well, at least start by replacing the canister and clean the valve. The biggest problem with the canister is that it will start coming apart and contaminating the entire EVAP system. The carbon contamination will make the valves and solenoids getting stuck.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:18 AM
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I had those codes and found it to be a broken nipple on one of the small valves on the bracket in front of the cannister. The short hose held the nipple in place, so the break was not obvious. I ended up getting another cannister and bracket assembly with all of the parts from a JY for about $25; two years later it is still doing fine. The OP doesn't post a location, so I don't know what shape JY cars are where he is - here in GA they tend to pe in pretty good shape underneath.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:13 PM
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@bobflood: funny you should mention that; I'm in Atlanta as well. This maxima (my 4th) had a life up north in DC and NJ prior to my purchase, and I've been paying the consequences ever since.
It's character building. Yeah. That's it.
I now keep on hand a set of M6 taps and fasteners because it's a given that if I have to take something off, Im also going to have to drill out the rusty post left after the head snaps off of the screw that held X part on.
Lesson = learned, and learning, and learning.....
The car itself has pretty low mileage though for an '03; just passed 80k. Not sure about the typical failure mode of a canister, but if it's mileage, then my canister should still be fine. If it's pure age then I guess it could need replacing.
The area I repaired on the canister is on the outside of the plastic housing; the inside of the canister is exactly as it was before, so there should be no breakdown due to the repair. It was only the threads that the two fasteners thread into to hold the valve in place on the canister.
The opening that the valve is inserted into is untouched as well, and the valve is new.
Is the EVAP Purge Volume Controle Valve the one that is in the engine bay on a bracket attached to the drivers side of the Intake manifold? If so, shouldn't they be able to test that pretty easily before recommending replacement?
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