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Forums Nissan Models Maxima 2000 clutch slave cylinder HELP
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:46 AM
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Default 2000 clutch slave cylinder HELP

My clutch died on me. Pedal stays on the floor and has no pressure. Master cylinder was empty. After some research I saw that replacing both master and slave cylinder are best options. I installed new master cylinder (biggest PIA) and was about to install slave cylinder until I saw where its located. No way to get to clutch hose without removing many many parts... Is there a way to minimize labor or is it better to bring to mechanic?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:11 PM
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You can bite the bullet and pass the ball to a tech or man-up and remove what is in the way.If you do decide to do the work yourself try to use a vacume type bleederas the clutch can sometime be a bigger pain the replacing the master cylinder.Not trying to scare you but truly it is not that big a job if you can get the vehicle high enough to work under.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:04 AM
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I don't mind the work, but the bolts to remove the slave cylinder are just way out of reach. I thought of maybe getting the extension for the ratchet. I tried bleeding the system after replacing the master cylinder hoping that was the problem, but the clutch still stays down when pressed.
Why would I need to get under the car? Are you saying in case I need a new clutch??

Thanks for your help BTW.
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Old 04-21-2009, 03:30 PM
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The clutch operating cylinder is located on the bell housing and i think it might be easer to get to, but i think once you get the slave installed and system bled you will be fine.

Last edited by tech22; 04-21-2009 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:47 AM
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I will see if I can get to it from underneath. Also after some further reading, I realized I was doing the bleeding procedure wrong. Duh!!

I'll let you know.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:35 AM
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Well, I was finally able to replace the slave cylinder with a ratchet extension, and while bleeding the lines, I find that the rubber boot on the slave cylinder has a pin hole. I'm returning it for another.
About the bleeding, I had a friend pump the pedal as I opened and closed the nipple to get the air out, and it was taking foreveeeeer. Not sure if it was because of the leak (possibly), but someone suggested a vaccum bleeder. I looked at the MityVac 8500. Would that make my job easier? I'm sure I will also use it on my brakes as well as my motorcycle, so it would be worth it.
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:38 AM
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Well, new slave cylinder installed, also replaced all hoses from slave to master with stainless steel line. I was told that by doing so, I would no longer need to bleed the top bleeder. So I bled the system. Turned the car on and for about 5 seconds all seemed fine but then I could no longer change gears. It begins to grind if I try to put shifter into gear. I have pressure on the pedal, lines are bled, and fluid in the reservoir. What gives?
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:41 AM
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Looking at the manual you must bleed the master cylinder and the clutch operating cylinder.The bleeder for the master is located on the side of the strut tower.It sounds as if you still have air in the system. This system can be a real pain to bleed .
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:56 AM
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By replacing the lines from the slave to the master with the SS, the bleeder at the strut is no longer operational as it is part of the hoses that were replaced. There is only one bleeder now which is at the slave cylinder. It has been bled. No bubbles and I have good pressure on the pedal.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:32 AM
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I was thinking about it, and basically it feels as if the clutch is not fully engaged to put it in gear. I will continue bleeding it. Thanks again. I'll post how I make out.
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