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Forums > > Car repeatedly dying even after new battery, alternator good
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:52 AM
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Kellie4712 Kellie4712 is offline
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Question Car repeatedly dying even after new battery, alternator good

Hi, I need some help! I have a 2000 nissan altima. over the past 6 - 9 months I get random dead batteries. I always thought it was me because i sometimes sit in the car with it off and the key turned back for music but never more then 10 minutes or so. it happened for the millionth time last week. I started it, went back out 3 hours later and it was dead. so i replaced the battery thinking I solved the Problem. Nope, because the next day it died again. when I say dead I mean DEAD can't automatically lock the doors or use the pull level for the trunk. its been 3 days since the new battery and it has happened twice. it hasn't happened in 24 hours but now I'm constantly wondering if my car is going to start every time I get in it. I had the battery checked just to make sure i didn't get a dud and I had my alternator checked because I was starting to think it was the alternator. I've been told 2 things
1. is that I need to rent a tool from autozone that checks fuses and go through each fuse one by one because there's a parasitic draw somewhere.
2. i was also told that inside my alternator is a voltage regulator and that sometimes it stops working and the alternator will still test good.
looking for any suggestions. also will rust battery terminals make this happen. Thank you!!
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:55 PM
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I would get a voltmeter to check if anything is drawing power from the battery.
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:36 PM
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Poor battery terminal connections are common on late model Frontiers and R51 Pathfinders, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was an issue on Titans. Make sure the cable connections on the battery are clean and tight (you shouldn't be able to turn them on the post by hand). The alternator is not a voltage regulator, rather, it has an internal voltage regulator. If this were defective, you would be able to see it when checking the charging system voltage. The tool for checking for draw at the fuses is the second step in the process; the first step is confirming there is a parasitic draw at the battery. Ideally, you would like to put an ampmeter or parasitic draw tester in-line between the negative battery post and the battery cable. With the key off and everything turned off or disabled (and the ignition switch "off"), there should be no more than 50 milliamps measured. More than this would be considered "excessive draw" and then steps would then be taken to find out what is causing the draw.
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