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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2008, 09:28 PM
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Default 2004 Altima Shifts Hard

Hello all:

2004 Nissan Altima 2.5S with 68,500 miles auto trans, no SES light. Lately my wife (primary driver) has been complaining about the car shifting hard. I drove it this weekend and noticed that the car DOES shift properly in ALL gears when cold and other random times. For the most part, when it has been running for a while, you will experience a hard jolting shift from first to second. The experience from second to third is not as intense but still noticeable. The shift from third to fourth is not noticeable at all.

I have done my research and found the following ideas:

1.) Service Bulletin concerning solenoid packs or transmission solenoid replacement? Does this ring a bell? Does someone have a link for more info on this?

2.) Have the car's transmission serviced (flushed/replace new fluid, filter). Make sure its a BG Service? What else do I want to know before having this done?

I would be grateful for any insight you guys could provide...
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:39 PM
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Until a Specialist replies...

I found this Technical Service Bulletin: Knowledgebase - 2004 Altima - Nissanhelp.com
NTB05-001 - 2003–2005 NISSAN ALTIMA, SENTRA, 2003–2004 MAXIMA, 2004 QUEST; 4 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HARSH 1-2 SHIFT AND/OR DTC P0745 STORED - The transmission fluid is full (correct level) and in good condition (not burnt), and there is a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd gear and/or DTC P0745 (line pressure solenoid circuit) is stored.

Also, take a look at this thread: solenoid issues and warranty? Helpppp
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2008, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
1.) Service Bulletin concerning solenoid packs or transmission solenoid replacement? Does this ring a bell? Does someone have a link for more info on this?

2.) Have the car's transmission serviced (flushed/replace new fluid, filter). Make sure its a BG Service? What else do I want to know before having this done?
The first thing you need to do is replace the transmission fluid and make sure the fluid is at the correct level. The bulletin requires to check the fluid anyway.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:31 PM
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Will do...

Now my question is:

1.) Go with the BG flush/filter replace/screen clean that Nissan recommends for $169

2.) Go to a respectable transmission specialist I know of in town and he said he doesn't believe in the flush method. He would drain old fluids and put new in, replace the filter for $150.

OR I could drain my own fluids but I wouldn't get as much as I need to out. My feeling is the BG flush might be a good idea NOW better than later when the car only has 60,000 miles. I will FIRST check my levels after its been running hot for reddish color, sweet smell, or a burnt more dark color.

What is your advice? Oddly enough I could totally do the solder work the bulletin speaks of (I work on computer motherboards) and I could probably figure out how to get my pan off even with the bar being in the way. BUT, I wanted to know if the BG flush really was a better idea and worth my money. Thanks for your replies...
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:54 PM
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I'll go for #2, I don't believe on flushing the transmission either. I had a few bad experience with older cars, after the flush the transmission started to have serious problems.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:04 PM
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If you go with your mechanic you should ask him to clean the trans cooler inside the radiator. Is a very simple step, just disconnect the hoses and blow cooler cleaner.

BTW You mechanic mention trans filter, but there is no filter in the trans, is just a screen that can be removed and clean.
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:42 PM
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OK so I checked the fluid today, it looks brand new--pink/redish, smells good/sweet, and plenty of it.

I think a flush is a waste at this point and agree it might do more damage then good. I'm really tempted about the "NTB05-001 - 2003–2005 NISSAN ALTIMA, SENTRA, 2003–2004 MAXIMA, 2004 QUEST; 4 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HARSH 1-2 SHIFT AND/OR DTC P0745 STORED" service bulletin. The SES light is currently NOT on but it HAD come on a couple of times, stayed on for a day or two, and cut off. The past couple of weeks, its been off, with this problem occuring.

When you say a code is "stored" does this mean the SES light could be off but the computer shows HISTORY of the P0745 potentially tripping? I guess the Nissan dealership is the only place that could tell about this versus an Advanced Auto Parts or some place.

So I guess, depending on my interpretation:

1.) See if P0745 was ever "stored" in my computer via Nissan I guess. If so, I think I will attempt this repair myself--I can solder, just need some advice on taking off the pan with the bar in the way (or so I hear--I haven't gotten under it to see what/where the bar is).

2.) Go with the flush, its always worth it to do maintenance/make your car last longer, blah blah, see if that helps (even though I think my fluid looks/smells/capacity is fine

3.) Go with replacing fluid ONLY(no flush) because of reasons in #2.

If you have a diagram of the transmission plate and how to take it off (if you have to remove the bar or if you just need a special tool to get to the missing bolts) please let me know, thanks!
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:44 PM
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Also I guess if the idea was to change my fluid, I would want to do that at the point I fixed this solenoid problem so by doing #1 (if it needed to be done of course), I would have to do #3...
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:39 PM
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My wife has been having the same problem with her car.

I just brought to a local tranny shop and he dropped the pan and cleaned everything out. The pan had a good amount of friction material in it, more than he would have liked to see. Car has 97K miles and the fluid has been changed faithfully. No CEL but he pulled a code, line pressure S/V. I can't seem to find anything on it. Any ideas what exactly it is?

He recommends getting rid of it now before it's tranny replacement time! :( He feels there's something else going on in there that's making the frictions wear more than they have to. He doesn't buy this solder the wire fix that Nissan is selling.

Joe
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:21 PM
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I have an update! :sad:

In the past few days, the hard shifting has subsided. But today it threw a SES light. Took it to AutoZone for the scan, P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction. Will this soldering TSB fix do it or is it something else? My wife wants to take it to the dealer and I feel we'll get porked big time, I'd rather take it back to the tranny shop.

Any suggestions?

Joe
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Old 08-22-2008, 12:09 PM
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Default Same problem with 2004 Altima

My 2004 Altima is having the exact same problem. We took it to a tranny shop and they couldn't find anything wrong. This new information is very helpful and I'm going to take it back and provide them with this.

Can you give me an update on what happened with your car? Was a tranny shop able to fix it or did you take it to the dealer. Any information is most helpful.

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:57 PM
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Default Harsh first to secound gear harsh

Well Every one i must say i have done what the service bullitin said exactly and it worked for me alittle back work never hurt anyone saved
me a thousand and no problems since
i have a 2003 nissan altima 2.5 and i think thats why the car was traded
previous owner must have felt it and thought it was transmission but i been blessed got a little dirty and it worked no more banging from first to secound gear
angelo t
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:51 PM
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thanks for letting u know
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:25 AM
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Alright guys so I have yet another episode in this saga:

By my original post you know that we are experiencing (still) a hard shift from 1st to 2nd on our Nissan Altima with 72,000 miles now (we've been driving it like this since my post above). The other day, I experienced, for the first time, a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. Shortly after, I'm in a neighborhood coasting, I try and accelerate, and it moves extremely sluggishly, like its in a very high gear--no grinding or any weird noises except I do hear a faint high pitched wizzing noise (solenoid?).

I try and put the car in gear manually 1,2,3,R to no avail, the car doesn't move--it just revs up like its in Neutral. I turn the car off, wait 2 hours, turn it back on and it doesn't move, so I have it towed to a tranny shop.

The next morning, they start the car up and drive it around town for 20 miles! The tech only experiences the ORIGINAL problem (1st to 2nd hard shift). He takes it back, does some looking, said solenoid looks OK (although I don't think he soldered the wire even though I told him about the service bulletin) and so he cleans the screen, replaces the fluid, drives it again that day with no problems. He drives it again today with no problems, calls me, says I owe him $75 and its all he can do right now.

So, is my problem eletronic? Stored codes had nothing to do with transmission (O2 Sensor, and maybe a fuel line something). I have no clue where to go from here--I want to drive it but I also don't want a faulty solenoid, improperly identified, to go bad making my whole tranny go bad.

What would you do? I have a place I can take it to that knows electronic troubleshooting pretty well. But what baffels me is the transmission seeming 100% shot one afternoon and the next day performing flawlessly. This tells me a potential heat issue and electronic issues.

Anyone with experience please help! I don't wanna be neglectful anymore!
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:29 AM
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I also have looked at the service bulletin NTB04-035:

IF YOU CONFIRM:
An Applied Vehicle equipped with an automatic transaxle has
ALL of the following
conditions:

Abnormal shifting (like: slip, "shift shock", no shift, improper shift timing)

Transmission fluid is not burnt

No excessive debris in oil pan*

The incident is listed as an A/T internal fault as per the Electronic Service Manual

(ESM) diagnostic procedure

When ESM diagnosis shows an incident is caused by an A/T internal fault for an Applied
Vehicle;
DO NOT replace the transaxle assembly.

Instead, first replace the control valve assembly (valve body) of the incident

transmission. Use the latest part number shown in your Nissan Parts Catalogue.

The only issue with this SB is I don't know if I qualify with the "The incident is listed as an A/T internal fault as per the Electronic Service Manual (ESM) diagnostic procedure" bullet point. Could it be the control valve assembly? I guess before I did that I would certainly make sure the 1st/2nd solenoid was soldered per previous SB.

What do you think?
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