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1994 Master Cylinder flare nut - hydraulic fluid leak. Forums > > 1994 Master Cylinder flare nut - hydraulic fluid leak. 1994 Master Cylinder flare nut - hydraulic fluid leak.
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:56 AM
sweetjustice
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Default 1994 Master Cylinder flare nut - hydraulic fluid leak.

After replacing the clutch master cylinder for a 1994 Atima SE, and re-connecting the hydraulic line. I noticed that after bleeding the system that the clutch pressure was poor and the pedal was not returning to the released level. While depressing the clutch, hydraulic fluid squirts out of the flare nut connection. At this point I am not certain if it is coming from the threads or from where the nut and line are connected. I have the flare nut torqued into the hole quite tightly and am cautious to over tighten for risk of stripping the cylinder threads. My question is what could be the cause. My thoughts are:

1. This is a PB brand (I believe) after market clutch master cylinder and by my comparison looked to be an exact match. However, has anyone experienced a difference in the bore depth of the flare nut hydraulic line connection? In my current faulty setup, there is approx 1 thread left on the flare nut.

2. It could be cross-threaded, however, I was careful when starting the flare nut, I was able to spin it in by hand several turns then used a line wrench to complete the tightening. It looks square from side to side, but I couldn't tell for certain if it was square from up to down given its position near the firewall.

3. If there is a known difference in bore depth, is a replacement hydraulic line available with a longer flare nut? It appears that the metal hydraulic line is approx 6in or so with all its special bends then connects to a square metal splitter or union piece, where a second flexible hose is run to the slave cylinder on the transmission.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks

-E
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Old 01-02-2008, 12:52 PM
sweetjustice
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Default update

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Originally Posted by sweetjustice View Post
After replacing the clutch master cylinder for a 1994 Atima SE, and re-connecting the hydraulic line. I noticed that after bleeding the system that the clutch pressure was poor and the pedal was not returning to the released level. While depressing the clutch, hydraulic fluid squirts out of the flare nut connection. At this point I am not certain if it is coming from the threads or from where the nut and line are connected. I have the flare nut torqued into the hole quite tightly and am cautious to over tighten for risk of stripping the cylinder threads. My question is what could be the cause. My thoughts are:

1. This is a PB brand (I believe) after market clutch master cylinder and by my comparison looked to be an exact match. However, has anyone experienced a difference in the bore depth of the flare nut hydraulic line connection? In my current faulty setup, there is approx 1 thread left on the flare nut.

2. It could be cross-threaded, however, I was careful when starting the flare nut, I was able to spin it in by hand several turns then used a line wrench to complete the tightening. It looks square from side to side, but I couldn't tell for certain if it was square from up to down given its position near the firewall.

3. If there is a known difference in bore depth, is a replacement hydraulic line available with a longer flare nut? It appears that the metal hydraulic line is approx 6in or so with all its special bends then connects to a square metal splitter or union piece, where a second flexible hose is run to the slave cylinder on the transmission.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks

-E
It turns out that the replacement master cylinder uses SAE threads and different type of flare fitting. Therefore, in order to make this work you need to custom make your metal hydraulic line. One end that mounts to the square splitter about a foot from the clutch master cylinder uses the metric "standard if you will" flare fitting, the other end used to mount to the new replacement clutch master cylinder is SAE with what I believe is a European style flare, if you were to look at it from a cross section it would be concave and the tube is convex the "standard" as I mentioned previously is the opposite.

No mention of it in the manual, nor at the store and as far as I know you can't buy a metal hydraulic line, no less one with a metric end and an SAE end. Talk about a pain, I will hand it to Nissan though on at least engineering it such that a small 12in length metal hydraulic line is used, that makes making one from scratch less painful if you have the right tools. It also makes removing it a snap.

I am kind of surprised no one has run in to this. Anyway hope this helps someone else out.

Side note, if your replacing the clutch master cylinder, just remove the hydraulic line too, it makes getting the cylinder in and out much easier.

Cheers,

E
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