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Forums > > No start, code U1000 ABS controller area network line malfunction.
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2018, 02:54 PM
M-train M-train is offline
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I contacted a local dealership today, and asked the guy in the service dept how much it would cost to flash a "used" ECM.

He started in on how most "used/salvage" yard ecm wouldn't take a reprogram, and some would, and that a new ecm was best, and on, and on.

I finally got a word in edge wise, and told him Nissan discontinued that part number for my car [which is the truth as I would just buy a new ECM if it was available for the money I've seen on Nissan parts websites, aka, around $600], and there WASN'T anywhere to buy a new ecm.

Then he kinda lightened up, and told me the price to reflash/program the ecm, which was reasonable at $103.

Was he telling me the truth about it being hit/miss with reprogramming the used ECM?
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2018, 09:13 AM
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No dealer tech likes using used parts, but some circumstances call for it. Any part from a salvage yard is hit or miss, so, hopefully yours will be a "hit!"
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2018, 05:12 PM
M-train M-train is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj View Post
No dealer tech likes using used parts, but some circumstances call for it. Any part from a salvage yard is hit or miss, so, hopefully yours will be a "hit!"
Yeah, that's what I hate about modern vehicles.

Back in the day with my Fords I kept an extra ignition module, and coil in the glove box, along with a fuseable linke, starter solenoid, and fuel filter, along with used belts, an hoses.

So if/when the car broke down all I had to do was look down in the carb to physically see if it was getting fuel.

If it had fuel, next was to check for spark. No spark meant that it was either the coil, module, or rare cases the pickup in the dizzy.

No taking the car to the friggin dealership for a damned reprogram.

You know, thinking back I NEVER was left stranded by any of my old Fords. ONCE a thermostat wouldn't open so I had to pull over wait for everything to cool, then swap it out. After that I bought fail safe therms where when they failed they failed in the open position, not closed.

The only problem I had with my old Fords was gas mileage, for which I'm seriously thinking about buying something like an old 56 Ford Crown Vic, and restomodding it with a six speed, AC, stereo, bigger brakes, etc.

Last edited by M-train; 01-14-2018 at 05:16 PM.
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  #19  
Old 01-19-2018, 03:06 PM
M-train M-train is offline
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Update:

Today I hauled the car to the dealership.

Long story short, they said all they were getting was a U1000 code, their Consult 3 wasn't able to communicate with the ECM, thus the salvage yard ecu was bad. Cost for today's adventure, $140.

The shop foreman was kind of a dick as he said there was just too much modifications done, which was part of the problem.

He said it wasn't too smart that I had the motor mounts disconnected. I finally figured out what he was saying, and I told him they weren't relevant to the engine running, AND when they failed they could take out the ECM. He said he never heard of such rubbish.

He also told me I was wrong to install Nitros Oxide [NOS] on a car like an Altima. I asked him where he saw NOS hooked up. I asked him, "so your a mechanic, and you know about cars?" He replied, "yes". I told him to show me the NOS system on my car. He pointed at my fuel pressure gauge, fuel regulator, and catch can.

I told him what it was, and he said, "all of that is just a fuel pressure gauge"?

Here is the only options I can think of.

Option 1: Matches, gasoline, big fire, and marshmallows.

Option 2: Find a cheap, cheap RUNNING 05 Altima SL with a V6, 5 speed auto, and all of the options my car has, buy it, and swap out the ECU, key switch, immobilizer, and that should fix everything , except I'll be 10 HP short vs an SER, which is no big deal.

Option 3: Find a cheap, cheap RUNNING SER, and do the same as option 2.

Option 4: Buy a NEW ECM for an 05 Altima 3.5SE, 5 speed auto. It looks like they are still sold, [as in not DISCONTINUED like the SER ecm], and there really isn't much difference between the 3.5se, and the SE-r, again, less the whopping 10 more HP.

The reason being is that I'm NOT buying another ECM to take to the dealership, and play the technician/bad ecm roulette wheel.

If there is any reason why buying a RUNNING cheap V6, swapping the ECU along with the key switch, and immobilzer won't work, please feel free to let me know. [plus I would have a parts car].

Last edited by M-train; 01-19-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2018, 02:23 PM
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Ok, I went through the trouble diagnostics EC-740-EC749

I checked all of the pins I could with the engine not running [engine running required in some tests.

Here are the results. I had a problem with the throttle position sensors, AND THE BRAKE SWITCH.

Ok here are the results.
pin [or P] 3 =12v
P4=.672v
P5=3.5V
P6=12V
P25=12V

P32=4.08V
P47=5V
P48=5V
P49=5V
P50=.36V, AND .36V NO CHANGE WHEN PEDAL PRESSED ***** NOT READING CORRECT
P54=3.77V

P68=4.7V
P69=4.3V, AND 4.3V NO CHANGE***********************NOT READING CORRECT
P78=0V
P85=9.3V
P86=2.3V
P90=5.07

P91=5.07V
P94=2.7V, AND 3.8V
P98=P2.29V
P99=4.05V, 0V, 1V, 3.04V AND 2.02V
P101=0V, AND 0V ************************************ NOT READING CORRECT

P102=0V, AND 10.9V
P104=12V, AND .89V
P106=.76V, AND 4.57V
P108= 0V, AND 12V
P109= 0V, AND 12V

P111-.80V, AND 12V
P113=1V, AND 12V
P117=12V
P119/P120=12V
P121=12V

NOTE: P101 didn't read correctly when the brake pedal was depressed which was supposed to be 11-14v. [could this be tied to the U1000 ABS, CAN line malfunction, I'm reading with my scanner?]
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  #21  
Old 01-21-2018, 07:55 PM
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I apologize, but I just started to follow this thread.

Forget about the codes for a moment, going back to basics (I'm not sure you mention), do you have fuel pressure and spark?

Also, you mention "Pin 35" , do you mean "Fuse #35"?

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Last edited by NissanTech; 01-21-2018 at 07:59 PM.
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