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Old 05-06-2017, 05:51 PM
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Riboater Riboater is offline
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Default another crank no start post....

Hello all. First time poster to this forum.
2000 Altima 198k miles
Car was running fine.
Sat for just 8 hours and then crank/no start. not enough a cough.
There are no codes.
Has spark all four plugs.
Has fuel. Pulled fuel line.
Has compression 125-150 per cylinder
(if i pull a plug and let it sit just above the hole, when it cranks it will ignite the air/fuel. Wife did not enjoy the pyrotechnic show)
Won't cough/fire if i spray carb cleaner directly into throttle body. Big mystery as the spark will ignite the mixture in previous experiment.
No oil in distributor. (replaced distributor 2 years ago for this problem)
Has 12v to red/black wire on distributor.
Anti theft light is not on when cranking.
disconnected battery to reset ecu.
What else could I possible check for?
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:12 PM
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update: now there is no spark. or intermittent. crankshaft sensor reads 725-750ohms and movement on the tach when cranking.
anyone?
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:36 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riboater View Post
update: now there is no spark. or intermittent. crankshaft sensor reads 725-750ohms and movement on the tach when cranking. anyone?
Inspect the Rotor. Did you replace the rotor when you installed the new distributor 2 years ago.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:37 PM
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yes cap and rotor came with it. I did brush off the cap terminals a bit and rotor looked ok. remember, there were no codes and i wouldn't think a worn rotor would instantly become a no spark would it? no warning signs of running rough or codes?

also tried a new crank sensor. cheap hail mary shot. no go.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:57 AM
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Rotors, caps, starters, fuses, relays, etc. are not monitored by computer thus will not generate a DTC. At this point I would test the camshaft sensor which is an integral part of the Distributor. It is monitored so it usually generate a trouble code but not always. If that checks out my next stop is starter relay, ignition relay, ECM relay, ignition switch. According to you you had sparks and suddenly none. So do visuals for broken wires.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:03 PM
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thanks for any input benny. not sure about my spark now. user error maybe. i cleaned up the cap and rotor terminals and there was a wire i had not reconnected, ooops, and now i have constant spark again. in fact i have full ignition. like before, if i pull a plug and let it sit just above the hole, during the compression stroke the air/fuel mixture puffs out and the spark plug ignites it. So i have fuel, spark, compression. something is telling the car not to run.
I found an article about a weird electric motor hum inside the tranny when the key is on, that i also have, and that the throttle position sensor was causing that. would a bad tps prevent a car from starting even though the cylinder is getting fuel and spark?
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:38 PM
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Sure a bad TPS results in no start. The ECM would generate a trouble code. At this point I would pivot to the Starter if it hasn't been replaced. Have it tested. Also do a voltage drop test. Start at the battery post and cable terminals. Take voltage reading at the starter and starter solenoid. You should have 12v.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:29 AM
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I wish there were code(s) to give me some clue. I'm thinking that rules out the tps, yet the symptom of the electric motor hum in the tranny is there. what is that anyway??
The tps is in a terrible spot. Philips head screws and facing the fire wall so you can't get a good grip. the starter/battery are good. cranks very strong.
almost ready to tow it in :( almost....
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:32 PM
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it was the distributor. i had spark.. ggrrrrrr
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:36 AM
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I have no idea.
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