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crankshaft position sensor harness
** first two paragraphs are prior to ckp harness connector replacement**
After replacing crank and cam sensors my car is still having stability issues. it may run beautiful for a couple miles then suddenly i'm pulling over with a misfire and flashing SES, or maybe it will just lose a lot of power, A/c, and get terrible with shifting properly. may crank right up, may take a bit. misfire could be gone after sitting a couple minutes. Roughness/ hesitation comes and goes while driving. The crank sensor harness would not latch onto the sensor securely and i kept getting the speed sensor and crankshaft sensor DTCs. I also noticed when looking into it more that the crank harness had all 3 wires bare right at the plug, and the plug was pretty beat up. Cleaned connectors with QR electric cleaner and blew the oil out with compressed air, and tried to separated the bare wire with electric tape. Also swapped the two sensors, one fit into both holes better than the other. ( thats what she said) after cleaning and swapping it seemed better. while in park the SES light would blip on/off when revved a little. -Today- Car ran beautiful since swapping sensors and cleaning. although i only drove about 30 miles. Took it to Nissan and got a replacement connector and they gave me the same one that is for for the cam. I questioned them to be sure it wasn't the green tabbed one i should have...*** Wired it up and connected it ( With the sensor bolted in!) and started it up, ran rough immediately and cooling fans turned on with varying speed even though my car was mostly cooled off by that point. Heard some clanking while it was idling, had to get to work so decided to see how it drove... hesitation cleared up mostly by the time i left my block. Had a little kick to go with it, almost seemed like a clogged exhaust clearing, i guess. gonna go get a scanner hooked up now and see if anything popped up. SES light still blips when parked and revved. -History Sensors are BWM or BWS or something similar. New style. Replaced plugs recently. Bosch plat 2 Tightened cyl 2 power valve screws which were loose. Inspected cat, no holes on the inside as far as i could tell Replaced pcv valve Replaced TB Misfire code is always cylinder 2, changing plug and swapping the boot and pack had no effect on this. Used MAF sensor cleaner on MAF Replaced O2 sensors Keep up on regular maintenance Coolant may be lower than its been, but not verified. Oil looks fine in engine and trans, no big changes in levels or color. Have been unable to identify a brown capacitor that sits with the ignition pack harness, unplugging makes no difference at idle, looks very beat up, cracked a bit at the bottom. |
#2
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So your '04 Altima runs fine now? The misfire, do the spark test to see if all ignition coils are firing. With engine at idle, disconnect the wire connector from the ignition coil one at a time starting from cylinder #1. If engine rpm drops, or sometimes engine stalls, that's normal, reconnect and start engine again.
Say you do that on cylinder #3 and engine rpm remains the same, it means ignition coil is not firing. Verify by doing the spark test. Insert a known good spark plug on that ignition coil ( i bought a $3. plug, or remove your existing plug) and crank the engine. If you don't see spark, that ignition coil needs to be replaced. It's causing the misfire. But before you go rushing to buy a new ignition coil, VERIFY again by switching, meaning, replace that coil with a known good ignition coil. If you see spark, you know your test is valid and you go buy a new ignition coil. That's how I did on my '02 Altima. Our local dealer charged $90. I got mine at eBay for $33. Hanjin and no problem since then. I was tempted to go with Bosch Platinum 2. After considerable reading, I went with NGK single platinum LFR5A-11. OEM plugs are PLFR5A-11 double platinum. Only difference is double last longer. Last edited by bennyb53; 08-12-2011 at 09:33 PM. |
#3
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i did the spark test, got spark, got fuel pressure and working injectors, just found a leak in the pcv hose/ breather area. just replaced both so ill have to narrow it down when im slightly less exhausted. my main concerns at this point are the weird SES flash when revved slightly, and the startup after replacing the connector. i dont think my engine would be running if something went through a chamber and through the cat. also i have what was the #4 coil swapped with #2 and it still came up number 2 misfire. put a new plug in 2 after.
All in all,other than the leak, i may be good. its running fine, not even the startup with misfiring and constant cooling fans turned on the SES, though.but anyway, ill see if it randomly declines again, thanks for the response Sorry for the extra info. |
#4
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Quote:
__________________
Nissan Master certified Technician
Hybrid and GTR certified EV certified ASE Master Certified. |
#5
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About a month ago I was having shifting issues and found that the ground wasn't connected, at the body I think. Bad corrosion. I put a new negative cable on but couldn't find the a connector that allowed me to connect to the body and trans easily. Got 2 cables and connected the ends at the body with the same bolt then the trans. I'll have a look at it today while I change the oil. Any idea where I could get a connector for the middle to clean it up?
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#6
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I would think any auto parts store, or even walmart/kmart, sears.If you're close to a auto salvage yard, you might get it for free.
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#7
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walmart and national auto didnt have it, didnt have a chance to look anywhere else. looked fine from what i could see but i didnt get a chance to get a close look. couldnt find the pcv hose, i was told the elbow on the filter tube was discontinued, same with the tube? i just replaced it but the new hose isnt nearly as rigid. also it doesnt seem to resist pinching/ collapsing as they said it would. ill look online i guess. its harder to find parts in stock at`the local parts stores than my '90 celica, have to order the tb, intake collector, and rocker panel gaskets.
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crankshaft, harness, position, sensor |
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