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2005 Altima - P0335 and P0725 errors Forums > > 2005 Altima - P0335 and P0725 errors 2005 Altima - P0335 and P0725 errors
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  #46  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:19 AM
ehiris
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Dealer found that the wiring on the CKP that the shop re-did and diagnosed for 200$ was bad. Car is now fixed.

Here is my yelp review of the shop I took this to and who wanted to replace the computer:

Gene's Auto Worx - Tempe, AZ
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  #47  
Old 07-14-2010, 08:52 AM
NISSANALT05
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I was told by the dealer that there are two crankshaft position sensors on my 2005 nissan altima 2.5 would anyone know where the other is or is this guy making a mistake??
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  #48  
Old 07-14-2010, 03:36 PM
ehiris
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One crankshaft sensor and one camshaft sensor. See my photos at the top of this page.

2005 Altima - P0335 and P0725 errors
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  #49  
Old 07-14-2010, 03:38 PM
ehiris
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You were right. The auto shop I took this to didn't re-wire the connector correctly.
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  #50  
Old 07-27-2010, 11:31 AM
XRC800
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Default 2005 altima

Took my 05 Altima to the shop and they found the same error codes, replaced the "crankshaft sensor" and still got the same codes. After reading here I thought he should try replacing both crank and cam sensors, called him and he said that there was just one sensor on the vehicle for both the crank and cam. But it sounds like from this forum that rather the identical sensor goes on both crank and cam positions. I will give him a call to see if he can replace both.

Just wondering though, is there an individual code for the camshaft sensor or would you get the same crankshaft error code for both sensors? Hope that makes sense.
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  #51  
Old 07-27-2010, 11:42 AM
ehiris
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Both errors come on even if one sensor is bad. Sounds like the shop you took it to is the wrong place to take it to. Camshaft sensor is really easy to replace. If they only know about one, it is probably the one they changed because the crankshaft sensor is difficult to locate and get to (see my photos). Don't get burned with a mechanic who lacks the necessary knowledge. It could be the wiring that is bad. Dealer can fix that easily.
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  #52  
Old 08-27-2010, 03:12 PM
L.McGee
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I have a 2006 Altima SE 2.5 4 Cylinder that was taking an excessive amount of time to fire up. Turned over nice and fast but didnt fire for about 5 seconds. My wife also reported she had problems with it feeling like it was shifting rough on her way back from Nevada to Washington.

Took it in to CarQuest and they loaned me a OBD Scanner, and it came up with Error Code P0725 Only. The guy at CarQuest told me the Cam and Crank Position Sensors... I Google searched the error code and came up with this and about 20 other forums... This Forum was the most helpful...

Autozone had the parts for 28.99 ea. Followed this and the book and replaced it within one and a half hours.

After keying on the car first then turning it over my SES light went off within 5 seconds and so far ive been without problems.

As a side note, the Cam Position Sensor took about 4 minutes to replace, the Crank Position took the remaining time... Turned out the Cam Position Sensor had oil on the pins (as I suspected to be the problem). The Crank Position that took most of the time and labor, was bone dry... bummer!

Thanks for the info and pictures... helped me get a bearing on location of the crank sensor.
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  #53  
Old 09-02-2010, 06:58 PM
kathleenp980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dxjinx View Post
I have recently been experiencing problems with my 05 Altima. Driving on the highway I noticed the engine felt like it slipped and then MIL came on saying service engine soon. Im getting codes for CKP sensor(0335) and engine signal speed(0725). Now when I try driving the car its fine for sometimes a couple of minutes then the engine cuts out and the steering freezes up. Needless to say this has put me in some very dangerous situations. Any ideas what could cause this? I would just take it to the Nissan dealership since its well under warranty but I am in the military and stationed in England and the dealership is not honoring the warranty and will not work on imports(US spec cars). Correct me if Im wrong but how much difference is there in an US Nissan and a English one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks you for the post.
Hi guys, Im a newbie. Nice to join this forum.
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  #54  
Old 09-28-2010, 02:50 PM
smithj
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Default CPS Replacement After Action Report!!!

To all those who have posted tips in this thread - THANK YOU! Especially ehiris for those photos as I don't think I would have ever found that crankshaft position sensor without them!

Symptoms of this failing was very hard starting of our 2005 Altima.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor (think that's the right name for it - the easy one to reach anyway!) are exactly the same part number at Autozone & are $28.99.

Thought I would add a bit of knowledge gained doing this job.
#1 - Getting to that thing is a PITA!!! However the tip to remove the bracket holding the wiring harness was a homerun. By moving it you have just enough room to get there.
#2 - Use a mirror on the rear side of the engine and by shining a light on it you can locate it which obviously helps to see it.
#3 - I used a flathead screwdriver to push in the green lock tab while pulling out with my other hand to remove the connector.
#4 - Taking the plastic cover off the top of the engine you can shine a light down through on of the cracks and get an eyeball on the operation which when putting it back together.
#5 - PUT OIL ON THE O-RING - it goes in much easier also connect the plug before putting it back in.

Good luck and go save some money.

Jeff
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  #55  
Old 10-17-2010, 11:57 AM
smulisag
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Default crank sensor error won't go away

So after following this thread and another, it was easy to replace the crank sensor but the problem is still there even after clearing codes and resetting. After resetting, I drove it 20 miles. Got out and went into store. Came out 10 minutes later and car almost didn't start. MIL did not come on. Drove it 100 yards and stopped. Went into another store and came out 30 minutes later. Car started much easier but still had to turn over more than usual. This time MIL came on and stayed on. Replaced Autozone sensor just incase and the second one told me the same thing. Took it to Bankston Nissan and I too got the $314 quote to replace same sensor I just replaced. They claim the manufacture makes these for specific model and Autozone uses generic ones to fit more models. I don't buy it cause when you buy a new one from the dealer it looks like Autozone metal one and not small plastic OEM.

So now I have replaced it twice and reset codes twice and still have the problem. Any clue? I can't figure out if it is true that I should only get the dealer one. I am not opposed to it, just already spent $28.99...they should be working. I would think there would be hundreds of people complaining about Autozone if none of these worked.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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  #56  
Old 10-17-2010, 12:29 PM
L.McGee
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Did you try the camshaft sensor? You only mentioned the crankshaft sensor.
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  #57  
Old 10-17-2010, 02:27 PM
cruzzr
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no, I would have to ask why change a sensor the computer doesn't mention? Is it really possible the cam sensor doesn't have it's own code therefore the cam and crank have the same code? That doesn't seem likely to me. Maybe I am giving Nissan too much credit?
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  #58  
Old 10-17-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smulisag View Post
So after following this thread and another, it was easy to replace the crank sensor but the problem is still there even after clearing codes and resetting. After resetting, I drove it 20 miles. Got out and went into store. Came out 10 minutes later and car almost didn't start. MIL did not come on. Drove it 100 yards and stopped. Went into another store and came out 30 minutes later. Car started much easier but still had to turn over more than usual. This time MIL came on and stayed on. Replaced Autozone sensor just incase and the second one told me the same thing. Took it to Bankston Nissan and I too got the $314 quote to replace same sensor I just replaced. They claim the manufacture makes these for specific model and Autozone uses generic ones to fit more models. I don't buy it cause when you buy a new one from the dealer it looks like Autozone metal one and not small plastic OEM.

So now I have replaced it twice and reset codes twice and still have the problem. Any clue? I can't figure out if it is true that I should only get the dealer one. I am not opposed to it, just already spent $28.99...they should be working. I would think there would be hundreds of people complaining about Autozone if none of these worked.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
If the sensor from autozone was the metal type then you had the right part. Most of the aftermarket suppliers have updated their stock to the new style sensors. Remove the plug from the sensor and check for oil in the connector on the harness. If it has oil in it clean it out with brake or carb. cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
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  #59  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:55 AM
smulisag
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ok, I cleaned the pug and wires with brake cleaner and dried everything with an air compressor. Now I will test it today but now I wonder, people have talked about "reprogramming the ECM" at the dealer. Is this the same thing as pulling the battery cable for 30 minutes? I was doing that to reset the codes because Autozone says they won't do it because it is against the law. I would have to buy a code scanner to do it myself. Just wondering if the "programming" has anything to do with "timing"of the sensor to TDC of the crank? Doesn't the ECM control this? Going for test drive this morning and will report back.
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  #60  
Old 10-18-2010, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smulisag View Post
ok, I cleaned the pug and wires with brake cleaner and dried everything with an air compressor. Now I will test it today but now I wonder, people have talked about "reprogramming the ECM" at the dealer. Is this the same thing as pulling the battery cable for 30 minutes? I was doing that to reset the codes because Autozone says they won't do it because it is against the law. I would have to buy a code scanner to do it myself. Just wondering if the "programming" has anything to do with "timing"of the sensor to TDC of the crank? Doesn't the ECM control this? Going for test drive this morning and will report back.
Programming the ecm is different than clearing the codes but it shouldn't have any effect on the problem you are having.
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